IÏstanbul is truly a world city,
a city which everyone should visit at least
once in their lifetime. It is an enchanting blend of Eastern
andWestern
culture, a vibrant, modern city, with an unique identity,
its rich past
coexisting alongside its youthful exuberance. Although no
longer the
capital of Turkey – Atatürk created Ankara as the
capital at the heart
of his new Turkish Republic, as a symbolic break from the
Ottoman
Empire – it remains the country’s cultural and
business centre.
It is a city of contrasts, bustling with the cacophony of
21st century life, and yet achingly beautiful. It is set in
a stunning location, surrounded by water – the narrow
strait of the Bosphorus and the serene Sea of Marmara separating
Europe from Asia. IÏstanbul has a foot in each, celebrating
the best of both heritages.As Byzantium, Constantinople and
finally, IÏstanbul, it has been the capital of three Empires,
each leaving their mark in the form of stunning palaces, castles,
mosques, churches andmonuments. The legacy of its chequered
past can be seen in every turn of the modern city.
 Orientation
& Where to Stay
The layout of IÏstanbul can seem confusing at first. The Bosphorus
or Bogðaz divides the city into the European andAsian sides,
linked
by two magnificent bridges, spanning the continents, the first
of
which was opened in 1973 to celebrate the 50th anniversary
of
the Republic. Most visitors to the city, staying for a few
days, will
have little reason to visit the Asian side, except for as
part of a
Bosphorus tour, on a boat which zigzags from side to side,
to
take in the best of each.
The European side, however, is also divided in two by the
Golden Horn or Haliç, which roughly divides the historic
part of Old IÏstanbul, encompassing the areas of Sultanahmet
and Laleli, from the modern city. It is crossed by a number
of bridges, the most famous of which is the pontoon, the Galata
Bridge. Most visitors on short city breaks stay in the old
town as the vast majority of the sites which they will be
visiting are in this area. IÏstanbul’s most famous sites
– the Blue Mosque or Sultan Ahmet Cami,Aya Sofya (Haghia
Sophia), TopkapÝ SarayÝ (Palace) and the Grand Bazaar (KapalÝ
Çars¸i) – are all within a 30 minute walk
of each other. It is easy to get around on foot or by making
use of the tram, which provides a regular service on the pedestrianised
main street. In terms of accommodation, there are now a number
of characterful boutique hotels in the area of Sultanahmet,
many of which are restored Ottoman wooden mansions. These
are ideal for those who really want to savour the authentic
atmosphere of the Old Town. Those on a budget, may want to
consider the more modern, and competitively priced hotels
of the Laleli district, although this area is much busier.
 Although
it is convenient, the disadvantage of staying in the Old Town,
is that, since it is not a residential area, you don’t
really benefit from the ambience of the modern city of IÏstanbul,
with its excellent restaurants, lively bars and cosmopolitan
feel. Some of IÏstanbul’s finest, most luxurious hotels
are located on the Bosphorus with stunning views over the
straits, or in the modern business districts. There are also
some historic establishments in the area known as Pera, which
blossomed at the turn of the last century. The heart ofmodern
IÏstanbul, is Taksim Square and the streets around. The advantage
of staying here is that in the evenings you have a wealth
of restaurants and relaxed bars within an easy walk of your
hotel.
Wherever you choose to stay, it doesn’t take much
to make the most of the city, and even three days will give
you the opportunity to see the highlights. It is such a large
city, however, that even if you visit time and again, you
can still discover something new each time. It is easy to
get around. There are a couple of handy trams – one
in the old town, and the other in the main shopping street
in Pera, IÏstiklal Caddesi. Taxis are plentiful and relatively
cheap and there are also dolmus¸ and bus services for
those who really want to explore.Most tour operators can arrange
tours to see the main sights.
 Sightseeing
There is so much to see in IÏstanbul that it is
impossible to cover everything. See the highlights
section for those which you really should
not miss, and go armed with a good guidebook
to give you the lowdown and make sure that
you get the most from your stay. See also page
30 for more information on the historic areas
of the city.
 The
Bosphorus
Some of IÏstanbul’s finest vistas are to be seen
from the Bosphorus. If you have time it is well
worth spending at least half a day viewing the
sights and savouring the atmosphere. You can
take a guided tour on a small boat, or Turkish
Maritime Lines (TDIÏ) runs a good value public
ferry service which leaves two or three times
a day and does the full round trip as far as
AnadoluKavagðÝ, the nearest village to the Black
Sea on theAsian side, and back to Eminönü. It
is a charming place, known for its fish restaurants,
and the walk up to the ruined fortress
overlooking the village, is well worth it for the
stunning views. As you leave from Eminönü
you can benefit from some beautiful views
back towards the old town with its evocative
skyline of turreted roofs and minarets.As you
head towards the Black Sea you will pass the
Dolmabahçe Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace and
the 15th century fortresses built by Mehmet II,
Rumeli HisarÝ and Anadolu HisarÝ. Also look
out for the stunning wooden Ottoman mansions,
many of which have been renovated and form
some of the city’s most desirable residences.
Even if you don’t have time for a Bosphorus
trip just take one of the distinctive city ferries
for a quick trip from Eminönü to the Asian
shores and back – to Üsküdar for example,
just
to admire the views of the old town.
The Princes Islands
Those who are staying for a little longer in
IÏstanbul, should really set aside a day to visit
these charming islands in the Sea of Marmara,
just off the coast of IÏstanbul. The picturesque
scenery of wooded hills, charming beaches and
authentic Ottoman mansions, combined with
the tranquil atmosphere, make for a pleasant
contrast to the city itself. Easily reached by
ferry or hydrofoil, the ambience of the islands
seems worlds away. BüyükAda, or ‘Big’island
is the most popular with visitors. No cars are
allowed but you can take a trip in a horse and
carriage to visit the Monastery of St. George.
Beaches
IÏstanbul itself does not have beaches, although
some people do swim from the Princes Islands.
If you are staying for longer and want a real
resort experience, however, it is better to
take a bus to S¸ile on the Black Sea Coast and
spend a couple of days in this delightful resort
with its vast golden sandy beach and relaxed
atmosphere.
 Shopping
IÏstanbul is a great place to shop. Whatever you
want to buy, you can find the whole range – from
souvenirs in the Grand Bazaar to designer labels
in exclusive malls. The same rules apply as in the
rest of Turkey ie fixed prices in ‘normal’shops
and bartering in and around the bazaars.
Shopping in the Grand Bazaar, KapalÝ Çars¸i
is an unique experience. Although some find
the atmosphere overwhelming, if you get into
the spirit of it, it is fun. The salesmen’s banter
is lighthearted and they are experts at guessing
nationalities from a distance and choosing their
language accordingly. Some of the lines are sure
to bring a smile to your face even if you are not
interested in buying. Feel free to browse – the
shops selling similar wares tend to be grouped
together, which makes it easier to see what’s
on offer before committing yourself. It is usual
to be offered a glass of apple tea, elma çayÝ, to
ease the bargaining process. The best advice is
simply to decide how much you want to pay for
something, start the haggling a bit lower and
then move up to your original price. You will
soon get an idea of prices if you ask around.
The Bazaar has thousands of shops, together
with cafes, banks, a post office, police station
and even a mosque – in fact a self-contained
community. They sell everything here from
cheap textiles to fine gold jewellery. Leather
goods are excellent value as are ceramics, silver
and, of course, carpets. It is worth a wander
around the IÏç Bedesten, the oldest part of the
Bazaar at its very centre, where they sell an
eclectic range of antiques and bricabrac.
The Spice Bazaar, known in Turkish as the
MÝsÝr Çars¸i or ‘Egyptian Bazaar’
is also well
worth visiting for dried fruit and nuts, spices,
including saffron, Turkish delight and cotton
goods.You can even find stalls where they will
custom-make a perfume for you. If you have
time, the walk between the Spice Bazaar and
the Grand Bazaar is interesting. To keep your
bearings, just head uphill through the maze of
streets where street vendors sell their wares at
rock bottom prices.
Those who are more interested in looking at the other end
of the scale, should head to the area of Nis¸antas¸Ý
for designer shops, the modern mall of Akmerkez or IÏstiklal
Caddesi. If you are in IÏstanbul over the weekend you should
take a trip to the area of Ortaköy, just under the first
Bosphorus Bridge to visit the atmospheric Sunday market which
takes place on the seafront.
 Eating
out and Entertainment
Nightlife in IÏstanbul is an unique mix – you can find
the latest clubs, which are some of the best in Europe or
a café with cushions on the floor, where you can smoke
a hookah pipe or nargile. Wherever you choose to eat, whether
you want a quick snack in the midst of sightseeing or a romantic
dinner for two you are likely to find delicious food made
from fresh ingredients, and can expect good value for money.
If you want traditional street entertainers and musicians
head to the area of KumkapÝ near the Sea of Marmara, in the
old town, famous for its fish, or the Flower Passage Çiçek
Pasaji off IÏstiklal Caddesi. You can find excellent restaurants
with views and many in historic buildings, as well as some
very fashionable restaurants serving international cuisine.
IÏstanbul is famous for its fish and seafood so you should
try to eat fish at least once during your stay. There are
some excellent fish restaurants along the Bosphorus.
For an idea of where to go and what to do there are two
English language publications, Time Out Istanbul, (www.timeout.com/travel/
istanbul) and The Guide Istanbul (www.theguideturkey.
com/istanbul/) which are available in hotels and shops
locally. |
