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sailing and cruising

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sailing and cruising

lie back and watch the beautiful scenery, stopping off as the fancy takes you

Turkey is surrounded by sea to three sides, and has a coastline of over 8000 kilometres in length. One of the bestways to see Turkey is from the deck of a boat,where you can lie back and watch the beautiful scenery, stopping off as the fancy takes you to explore a historic site or visit a charming village. Turkey has a wealth of world class marinas, providing excellent facilities for those who have their own yacht or who have chartered one. The large cruise liners usually only stop off at IÏstanbul and Kus¸adasÝ. both large ports which are perfectly situated for access to some of Turkey’s most interesting historic sites.

Turkey is perhaps best known for the Mavi Yolculuk or ‘Blue Cruise’, the coastal voyage on board a traditional Turkish wooden boat known as a gulet (goo-let). It all started in Bodrum with Cevat Sakir Kabaagðac, who wrote a book in the middle of the last century called Mavi Yolculuk in which he described his ‘blue cruise’ sailing around the coast of Bodrum with the local sponge fishermen. He became known as the ‘Fisherman of Halikarnas’ and inspired many others to seek the pleasures which he described.

Over the years, gulets have evolved from traditional fishing and cargo vessels into their present profile with a broad beam and wide deck. They usually have a large sunbathing deck to the fore, a sitting/ dining area at the back, and cabins below. Constructed mainly in local shipyards in and around Bodrum, Bozburun, Marmaris, Fethiye, and IÏstanbul, and along the Black Sea Coast, the boats are equipped with motors as well as fully functional rigging. The number of passengers a gulet carries depends on the boat’s size, although most of them accommodate between eight and twelve people in double or twin cabins.

Gulets can be fully chartered by a group or are sold on a cabin basis by tour operators. They are usually comfortable and can be extremely luxurious but standards do vary hugely, so if you are comparing prices you should check exactly what you are getting for your money. Cabins can be on the small side with little storage space so it is wise not to pack too much – in any case, you probably won’t be wearing much more than swimwear during days at sea. Usually, there are three or four crew members on board, including the captain and the cook, and the atmosphere is one of relaxed communal living.

Gulets usually travel a specified route, starting from resorts along the SouthAegean and Mediterranean. Turkey is full of isolated bays, inlets and tiny islands, some of which can only be explored from the sea so it is a great way to see the best of the coast and get away from the crowds. Those who don’t like the idea of a whole week at sea, can take a day trip from most resorts. Either book through your operator or a local agency or simply go along to the harbour first thing in the morning.

Some of the highlights of the coast from Bodrum to Antalya:

Bodrum is the place where it all started, a buzzing, bohemian resort whose Karada Marina is one of the best-equipped in the region and the starting point for a trip around the stunning Gulf of Gökova. Akbük is hidden behind a forested promontory, it is splendidly scenic and a great place to stop for its charming restaurants and snorkelling in the clear waters. Datça is a charming village with the famous ruins of the ancient city of Knidos nearby. Orhaniye is a picturesque hamlet, surrounded by pine trees, where you can see the shallow bar of sand known as KÝzkumu which runs across the cove and makes it look as if people are walking on water. Sedir Island, known in English as Cleopatra’s Island (ancient Cedrai) boasts an incredible beach with fine sand composed of fossils, and a splendid view of the Kiran Mountains across the bay. It is said that the sand here was imported by Mark Antony for his lover, Cleopatra and that she bathed here. Marmaris’ Netsel Marina is one of the largest and best-equipped marinas in Turkey, and the Marmaris Albatross Marina, one of the best for wintering and maintaining yachts, which make this cosmopolitan resort an excellent starting point for a Blue Voyage. At Ekincik, a delightful yacht-mooring, you can enjoy the breathtaking beauty of this area and the friendly hospitality of its people. From Delikli Island, which lies right off the coast, southeast of Ekincik you can take an excursion to Dalyan on a smaller boat. Göcek is a charming resort, favoured by yachtsmen, with some lovely seafront restaurants. Dotted with islands and indented with many coves, the land and seascapes of the Gulf of Göcek are irresistible. On Tersane Island stand Byzantine ruins including those of the ancient shipyards from which it takes it name. Fethiye, a traditional market town boasts a natural harbour and beautiful mountain scenery. Kekova is the name of a group of picturesque islands with numerous bays and ancient cities. Along the northern shore of Kekova Island, at Apollonia, earthquakes once disturbed the land causing some of the ancient houses to sink under the clear water, creating the sunken city which is so enchanting today. Kaleköy Castle (ancient Simena) offers a bird’s-eye view of the bay’s inlets, islands and colourful yachts sailing peacefully on the glassy water. At Demre (Kale), the ancientMyra (25 kms west of Finike), many splendid carved Lycian rock tombs overlook the magnificent Roman theatre. St Nicholas, the real Father Christmas, was the Bishop of this Mediterranean city during the fourth century. Olympos, on the southern side of Mount TahtalÝ (Mt. Olympos), is surrounded by oleander and laurel bushes. Nearby, high on the hillside at Yanartas¸ (literally ‘burning stone’), themythological Lycian hero Bellerophon mounted his winged horse Pegasus and slew the fire-breathing Chimaera. Kemer, a resort town carefully designed to blend in with the surrounding scenery, where the fully equipped Park Kemer Marina has good facilities. April is the month of the colourful Kemer Carnival. Also in the spring there are yacht races between Kemer and Girne (Kyrenia), in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. Antalya, Turkey’s largest Mediterranean city has a backdrop of the towering Taurus Mountains. Here the ancient city of Attaleia, named after King Attalus II of Pergamum, was founded in the 2nd century BC. Today, palm-lined boulevards, beautiful parks, historical buildings, monuments, museums and the picturesque old quarter of Kaleiçi (with the Kaleiçi Turban Marina) blend together to create a perfect holiday atmosphere.